Senin, 31 Oktober 2011

The 360 Degree View of Gilles Larrain


Gilles Larrain was born in Dalat, Indochina, in 1938 to a Chilean father, who was a diplomat and painter, and a French-Vietnamese mother, who was a pianist and painter. His father was Hernan Larrain, at that time consul of Chile in Indochina, and Charlotte Mayer-Blanchy, granddaughter of Saïgon’s first mayor Paul Blanchy. He was also the nephew of cardinal of Talca (Chile) Rafaël Larrain. He was educated at New York University and at the Ecole Nationale des Beaux-Arts in Paris where he studied architecture and worked in city planning.

Since 1969, Larrain has devoted his energies to photography and has concentrated specifically on portraiture. In 1973 he published the highly successful photographic book 'Idols', which presented portraits of transvestites. Larrain sees portraiture as a way to “capture the landscape of the soul of a person”. His subjects have ranged from dancers to musicians, artists, celebrities and friends.

Q1. You mentioned playing flamenco guitar. What was the music that inspired you?

GL: Well first my love in music was Bach, I used those records so much there was almost no sound in the groove and of course I love the music of the middle ages. When the sun comes up at the beginning of the day you can see the light coming up, that is what the music of the middle ages is all about, Gregorian Chant. And then I went to Spain in 1959/60 when I was a kid and I met Carmen Amaya. I went to a party in the South of Spain and there was a party and La Chunga (Micaela Flores Amaya), was dancing, Sabicas was there and it was so powerful that music and so erotic.



GL: La Chunga was dancing and it was very hot, in the morning and you didn’t want to go to bed. She was dancing and she had beautiful breasts, she had a very thin silk thing and she’s dancing bare feet. Virus, that’s it. That’s what happened. So all this Presley thing that was happening in New York, looked very tame to me. Without passion because it was about passion and truth. Not about glitter, posturing or pretending. ‘I’m The Great Pretender’, it was about the raw, like the blues you know, the raw power of the human aroma. You cannot censor a bullet when it fires. It will censor when it goes through something. That was the virus that caught me. Everybody is influenced by The Beatles and of course it is fantastic. When I was shooting ‘Idols’ at the time, I put continuously ‘Imagine’ by John Lennon. Imagine the people, no religion, no frontier, freedom, freedom.
Q2. When you found all these characters for ‘Idols’ for example, were they people that you knew or found on your travels and did you get the feeling that you were capturing an iconic moment?

GL: All my life my sense of curiosity has been there. I had to adapt when I was transplanted and transported and integrated in different cultures, I had to learn the language. You become like a microscope enlarging everything…so my second wife, I’m a collector, this is my forth wife, I collect friends. Each has our own idiosyncratic behavior, what am I? I am nothing, I am a sponge. So when Christine was working at Max’s Kansas City I used to go pick her up there and Mickey Ruskin, the owner, became a friend. All the artists who went there were fed by him, never having pay. However when they had a fire in the kitchen at Max's every artist brought pieces for a couple of auctions to get money for Mickey to start Max's again, because we all needed a place to go, a water hole to go and drink. It was like the jungle-the place was always active, complex, obscure. An Amazing place.

I saw the back room, the Warhol room. There was neon lights of Dan Flavin, The Cockettes came one day and I said ‘Wow!’ I met John Noble, Taylor Mead and we became friends. After one came to my studio, everybody came. So it was like a Salon. Once a week we had a photo session, for a couple of years. We have more than 17,000 Koda chromes. What we have at the Steven Kasher show is just the tip of the iceberg. So that’s how it happened. It’s a snowball that comes down the mountain....‘Brrrrrrrrrr’ getting bigger! The snowball is also like the fishing net that grabs everything in the sea. I was living and I was enjoying it. I have no concern about Avant Garde, rear Garde, middle Garde, no Garde, I have no box. I don't live in a box.

What I saw is that when I was showing my photos to ‘straight’ people, my clients, was that they were very very mad at me. “Why are you photographing these deviant sick people?” I got letters of insult. 1970/71, those were not like now in fashion, it was really under ground. Don’t go there. That’s sinful. You scare people because the frontier has been broken, like illegal immigration. The French have a saying: “The habit makes the monk”. If you wear the monk’s habit you become a monk. If you dress like this, that is what you were. Eveyone wants to be put in boxes. Like a submarine-It is in compartments. Why? Because if a torpedo pierces one part they can close it. It is about safety. That is why the metaphor of a submarine is a good one. Everything is cut in slices so if something gets flooded the others don’t. That is the mentality of society.

I did a book in 1973, a small book called ‘Idols’. Made by a music publishing company, cheap pages, cheap glue, like a magazine. But that book became like an icon thing. Ryan McGinley, a young upcoming dynamic guy, he knows about global communication, He writes for Vice magazine. Ryan called and said "I would like to interview you" and we talked. Shooting the breeze...and the article came out and it was everywhere. Then Steven Kasher called me and said he would be interested in some vintage prints for a show of Max’s Kansas City. So it’s natural flow. Those subjects are done 40 years ago and they are still quite authentic and contemporary. They’re not out of fashion in a way because they are not a fashion thing. It’s a fun creative moment. It’s like tableaus, not about selling underwear. And it is influencing fashion again. You look at that girl with the silk dress. You look at the pants and it could be now and it is 40 years ago.

Q3. You’ve a big affinity with many iconic musicians…Miles Davis, New York Dolls, Sting, Billy Joel.

GL: I enjoyed making the backdrops, which I did for the American Ballet theatre catalogue also. The entire catalogue was done in one week. The backdrops in those photographs are painted on canvas. 89 dancers came to my studio and in order to make the backdrop I put ropes, very thick construction ropes on the floor. I wet the canvas with a light glue that acted as a primer and with bare feet I stamped on the canvas to make the impression of the ropes. It became almost 3D. A friend of mine is a big mathematician in France. Developing The Concorde was part of his mathematical theory and he has interesting theories regarding knots. The Gordian Knot for instance.

I also painted the background for the portrait of Sting for his ‘Bring On The Night’ film. We had a meeting with him, we had lunch at the restaurant the day before the shoot and He said I just came from the Caribbean and the new record is ‘The Dream If The Blue Turtles’” and he said “I love the water, I was diving” and he had a blue jacket. I said ‘ok, I have an entire night to make a backdrop’. And he came with that jacket here. No art director, no designer, no make up. He came with about 30 people, production, and I said to him “Sting we cannot work like that. Just you and I”. I love music, it’s about the music, not the photography. Photography is just the tool, you know.

Q4. What about the creativity and the internet. That kind of human exchange doesn’t happen online…

GL: It’s messaging. It is not touching the skin so what is it?. It’s very informative. You have an idea you can send it. Thanks to the internet that Egypt…Tunisia happened. It’s like, we used to ride horses now we ride planes-Technology is progressing. But humanly, the mind, the intellect is not progressing. So we take it for granted that everything can be solved with technology. But you can not get creativity in a package.

Sometimes you get information which is not totally right. In this book it said that my mother was a chemist, but my mother was a pianist, she was never a chemist but it is written there so people say Gilles mother is a chemist so he is a scientific guy that’s why there is chemistry in the dark room. So it is misinformation. So even that information is not correct. But if you read three different books, three different papers you see three different things. You realize the planet is not flat….you can think flatly because they have been informed that way. Curiosity is a wide angle lens. Creativity is like the eye of the fly. A fly has 36,000 facets to the eye. The fly can see 360 degrees everywhere. The fly can fly upside down. No helicopter can do that. That little monster , little thing the fly is the most incredible technical thing as a creation it is fantastic. That kind of vision is creativity.

Q5. You work very fast…

GL: When I work yes. We have a friend, she’s an amazing collector and she commissioned a painting and it took me five years to do it-she was mad at me. I said “I am not Domino Pizza, I don’t deliver on time!”I am the guru of patience.

The gumption and the desire to be free from structures that limit your creativity. Like deliver on time and produce for the gallery…you have to be very lucky to survive like that. How do you survive for 72 years in life doing what you love, and loving what you do. And that’s it. Not compromising. It is very fucking lucky to be there. I am .

We have an Iranian vase in our bedroom that is 4000 years old. I look at it I am connected to my family who were collectors of Chinese, Greek, African antiquities. My father was friends with Picasso and Braque and he was also very affected by African art. It's real, like the sap of the tree and it is connected to the beauty of life.

I studied architecture in the 1960's and we went to see the Paleolithic cave paintings at Lascaux in southwestern France. As an architectural student you could go to the real caves at that time. The caves are now closed to the public because the paintings were becoming damaged over time, from visitors touching them. For me it was so powerful to see the real paintings, there were no art dealers, no collectors at that time, there were no galleries either. Why did they paint these images, with blood, bone marrow, with blue berries? Pure human expression.

These paintings are not a canvas, they're on the walls, which are undulating, following the stone formation. When the light hits the walls from different angles it is almost like animation. You could work with a low emission carbon flashlight and see that they were almost moving, it was the most amazing thing. 30,000 years ago. That’s the spirit, you see. Not many people have seen that. These are my roots. I go back to roots, always. They paintings are so beautiful, the light, the way they move. To be that lucky to see that.

Gilles Larrain: Idols & The House Of Louda
Exhibition November 2nd - December 23rd
Steven Kasher Gallery, 521 W. 23rd Street, New York City.
http://www.stevenkasher.com


http://www.gilleslarrain.com/
http://www.loudacollection.com/

Kamis, 27 Oktober 2011

5 Minutes With Iain McKell


IAIN McKELL studied at Exeter College of Art and later moved to London and spent a year photographing skinheads and new romantics. He started contributing to i-D, The Face and Vogue Italia. Nick Knight assisted McKell for his college industrial release which also inspired Knight to photograph similar subcultures.

In 1982 McKell photographed Madonna for her first magazine cover, Smash Hits' rival, 'No 1 Magazine'. At that moment she was completely unknown except on the New York Club Scene - 'No.1' took a gamble and put her on the cover the following week after the exposure of her first hit, 'Holiday' which went to Number One in the British charts and she never looked back.


In 1984 McKell staged a self-curated exhibition in his studio - 15 Westland Place - called 'Iain McKell LIVE'. The concept for the exhibition was to be an artist-in-residence and the public could watch shoots being created as work in progress like an audience. During this show comedians from the British TV comedy 'Comic Strip'- Dawn French, Jennifer Saunders, Robby Coltrane, Adrian Edmonds and others sat during this performance/photography project. Capturing the attention of the London media ,the show became high profile. The Photographers' Gallery invited McKell the following year to stage 'LIVE 85' at their gallery alongside the group show '5 years of the Face,' in which he was also a contributor. McKell immediately went on to work on advertising campaigns for brands such as Smirnoff and Red Stripe with meetings for these campaigns being held there at the Photographers' Gallery as part of the photographic installation.

McKell carried on photographing for The Observer, The Sunday Times, i-D, L'Uomo Vogue and directing TV commercials and pop promos. In 1995 McKell was singled out as 'most promising new-comer in advertising' by Campaign magazine for Creative Futures Exhibition - as nominated by Malcolm Gaskin. In 2001, McKell staged an exhibition in Brick Lane called 'Then and Now' at Story. Showing three tribes of the eighties - Skinheads/Mods, Clubbers/New Romantics and New Age Travellers.

McKell has gone on to document subcultures that hold a fascination for him - neo gypsies living and travelling in horse-drawn wagons, Thailand psychedelic-trance jungle parties, Wickerman festivals in Scotland, hip hop, rockabilly in the USA, the nineteen-forties swing club in London, 'Lady Luck', new mods and the 'Lewis Bonfire Society' - all of which have been published in i-D, L`Uomo Vogue and The Sunday Independent. This all recently came together in McKell's first published book, spanning three decades of subculture called, 'Fashion Forever,' published by Imprint in Whitechapel.


Q1. What was the first record that you owned that really had an impact on you?

IMcK: Eloise by Barry Ryan. I was 12 years old

Q2. When did you first pick up a camera and what inspired you to start taking photographs?

IMcK: At Art College in 1977 I was 20 year old...Diane Arbus book and a job as a sea side photographer in my home town Weymouth sea front. I had this idea that i could make a visual dairy of my life.

Q3. The New Romantic portraits you recently did for Vogue Italia included Adam Ant, Gary and Martin Kemp, Chris Sullivan, Midge Ure, Steve Strange and Rusty Egan look great. What prompted you to reunify the movers and shakers of the New Romantic movement?

IMcK: It was a commission for L'Uomo Vogue...I liked the idea of getting them all in the same room for a glass of wine and see what happened...

Q4. You recently showed your New Gypsies photographs at the Clic Gallery in New York. It seems that lifestyle of protest and anti establishment living is more relevant than ever. Particularly with is happening in Zuccotti Park at Wall Street and in The City in London. What attracted you to document these Gypsy 'tribes'?

IMcK: Punks in the landscape ..I grew up in Dorset and painted landscapes at 11 years old then in my teens I was a skin, then punk. The horse Drawn are very inspiring way of living leaving no carbon foot print. They are trueley post modern taking 18th century technology and combining with 21st century technology. That's a very interesting look at the future.


Q5. What attracts you to the Rockabillys, Skins, New Gypsies and other street and lifestyle tribes as subject matter?

IMcK: I like counter culture, as the main stream is dull but its not just counter culture that interests me, I like individuals, people with strong souls.
Iain McKell has spent the last ten years documenting the lives of New Age travellers and “Modern Romantics”. From skinheads and punks to Blitz Kids and rockabillies, rarely has a subculture emerged in the last 30 years that hasn’t been captured by McKell, a photographer who combines a documentary style with sharp insight, drawing his viewer’s attention to the different and unfamiliar. McKell first became acquainted with travelling communities in 1986 when he was photographing the ‘Peace Convoy’, the infamous travelling protest group and thorn in Thatcher’s side. “It was punk and anarchy against a landscape of nature and beauty. They were reinventing the British dream,” he explains. In 2001, McKell attended the annual summer solstice, and what he saw was not a ‘hippy’ lifestyle, but a hard-working community that lived in horse-drawn wagons, raised children and lived a simple, nomadic existence. Instantly fascinated, McKell spent the next ten years photographing these individuals, a collection of images that form his latest book ‘The New Gypsies’.

McKell describes his portraits as “shamelessly romantic. My interest is in their faces, their souls and their stories,” he explains. “I wanted to capture them showing warmth and affection.” McKell’s images include shots of adults, children, wagons and “global gypsy” Kate Moss. “I think that gypsy wanderlust is in Kate’s soul”, says McKell. “She wanted to experience the romantic idea of running off with their community.” Through his work, McKell hopes to change the prejudice towards travelling communities. “I want to open up peoples’ minds”, he confirms. “People are scared of what they don’t understand. It comes naturally to me as a photographer to see people for who they really are.”

‘The New Gypsies’ is available now at selected UK bookstores published by Prestel priced £24.99.


All photographs Copyright Iain McKell.

http://iainmckell.iainmckell.com/

Senin, 24 Oktober 2011

Drexel University

Really great to see the fantastic exhibits made by Drexel University students inspired by the Rebel Rebel book and lecture. Well done to all!



Skaters -
Laura Bianchi
Kristen Levine
Emily Sheltraw
Amanda Smith




Psychedelics -
Alexis Dovas
Jennifer Fulton
Emily Stall



Hip hop -
Sarah Diab
Patrick Bartscherer
Edward Benedetto



Glam -
Nancy Annesley
Caroline Cohen
Allison Hunsberger

Jamie Reid-Peace Is Tough - 27th Oct - 20th Nov 2011


Bear Pit
Park Street
London SE1
27th October - 20th November 2011

Private View 26th October 6pm - 9pm

Isis Gallery and Merge Festival are extremely pleased to announce the opening of Jamie Reid - 'Peace Is Tough'.

Hot on the heels of Reid's wonderful Ragged Kingdom installation for Isis Gallery at Londonewcastle Depot in June, Peace Is Tough revolves around two polarities - one being principal elements of the Jamie Reid Archive which has recently been exhibited at the CCBB in Rio and MoCA in Los Angeles. The second being a presentation of the 365 paintings that comprise the core of Reid's expansive and delightful Eightfold Year project.

Peace Is Tough will be installed in a very raw space behind Tate Modern. Entry is at your own risk.

Reid's Archive spans the decades, from college plotting through punk to protest graphics. This presentation includes original collage work, drawings and paintings, bromides, proof prints and photographs. Elements of the archive are present in extremely important international collections, including that of Tate, acknowledging Reid's importance in the narrative of 20th and 21st century culture.

The 365 small gouache paintings (each a uniform 100 x147mm) that compromise the core of Reid's Eightfold Year project represent an exposure of an intensely private endeavour. Reid's daily painting practice has flourished in the last ten years. October 31st 2011 will also be the first day of the second year cycle for an online project which offers a daily painting, festival dates, moon phases and wild flower information that changes daily, through the cycle of solstice and equinox.

Jamie Reid's unique vision articulates and gives form to some of the key issues of our times. He responds to the ever-increasing attacks on our civil liberties and shared common spaces with passionate anger and savage humour, and shows us ways in which we might re-organise our political and spiritual resources. This is the role of the shaman and Reid's art acts like a lightning rod, returning us to the earth so that we might share the work of healing.

Open 12pm - 7pm Wednesday to Sunday.

Please contact us at Isis Gallery for images and interview proposals
contact@isisgallery.org
or call John Marchant on 44 7906 275 098.

Isis Gallery would like to thank Illuminate Productions, Merge Festival and its sponsors - Tate Modern, Better Bankside, The Denis Rosen Memorial Trust, Land Securities, Bankside Mix, Commercial Art and the London School of Economics.

Senin, 17 Oktober 2011

PX Helen Robinson and Steph Raynor




I designed a few hats for Helen Robinson and Steph Raynor's PX store in Endell Street, Covent Garden, London in 1982 (pictured above). These were the first designs I ever sold at retail. PX was the premier New Romantic boutique and former haunt of Visage vocalist Steve Strange who worked there for 2 or 3 years. I worked in the store as a 'saturday boy' in 1983 and 1984. My friend Rosemary Tuner (who currently runs The Face night club in London) got me the job. Rose managed the PX shop and did the door of the Steve Strange and Rusty Egan's Camden Palace. By that time Steph Raynor had left the business, though he had been the catalyst in opening the store. Raynor had been a part owner of Acme Attractions, and later BOY, two Kings Road boutiques that in the early 1970s were places where many punk musicians hung out. PX was part of the next wave of London boutiques that lead the way in street fashion.

The first PX shop was in James Street, Covent Garden, and opened in September 1978. It was very hi-tech and many of the shop fittings allegedly came from MI5 when their Curzon Street office was demolished. There was a television screen outside and the PX sign flashed on and off like an exit sign. The clothes were military inspired and often called the 'Toy Soldier' look.


Helen Robinson Photographed by Nick Knight in 1986.

Steve Strange Photographed by Janette Beckman.
Steve Strange, from his autobiography 'Blitzed!'.
Steve Strange in PX Clobber.


Later the store moved to Endell Street and had a more romantic look. Julia Fodor (Princess Julia) worked at this store and Stephen Jones had his millinery business in the basement of the Endell Street shop.


The Amazing Stephen Jones at PX in Endel Street.


The PX 'Paint Your Wagon' look.



Stripes and Sports wear in 1984

PX Ad from The Face 1985

A photo history of PX from The Face magazine.
Photo from a feature in The Sunday Times Magazine: "Why London Has It Made", featuring PX clothes. 1984.
Keanan Duffty in PX Hood-1982. "How Very Dare You!"